Looking to the Future, Preserving the Past

By Rachel Smith, Peace Corps Volunteer

The Municipality of Zrnovci is located in the northeast section of Macedonia outside of the city of Kochani roughly 60 km [36 mi.] from the border passage into Bulgaria at Delcevo. Nestled on the slopes of the Plaskovica Mountain, the beautiful village flourishes with abundant wildlife. The Municipality of Zrnovci consists of the villages of Zrnovci, Morodvis, and Vidoviste and has a total population of 3,247 people. The people of this region, and Macedonia in general, are a proud people that have managed to maintain their traditions, culture, and knowledge of their rich history throughout periods of foreign occupation and changing borders.

A common phrase heard throughout Macedonia is ima vreme or "to have time". Time for family, time for friends, time for children, time to plant and harvest, and time to relax and enjoy life. Zrnovci is a community of endless generosity. On more than one occasion, I have ventured into a local restaurant for a coffee and the owner or a waiter on his break has offered food from their own plate.

Much can be written about the food of Macedonia. As part of the now disintegrated Yugoslavia, Macedonia was the agricultural region, and the preservation of their farming techniques is something that the world should admire, rather than seen as a lack of progress. Because these land plots are small, it is more practical to use mules and plant and harvest by hand rather than with tractors or other machinery that require fuel. Also, since pesticides and other chemical treatments are expensive, most of the food is naturally produced, if not organic.

A donkey greets Rachel as she walks through the Zmovci countryside.

Since making a living in Zrnovci is challenging, many of the families are primarily eating what they produce in their gardens and fields or are able to exchange with friends and family. In particular, the Zrnovci region is known for their rice (they are the only region in Macedonia that produces this product), peppers, and leeks. Many of the people living in the Zrnovci region have small parcels of land that are used to grow agricultural products for their families and to sell in the local pazars.

What is amazing on first observation is the diversity of agricultural products produced in the region. On second glance (and taste) people will notice the quality of the products produced. Because the products are picked fresh and sold locally, the size and freshness is an amazing quality for someone such as myself who is used to much of their food being shipped across the country or around the world. Picking and eating cherries directly from the trees, strawberries the size of a person's palm, and homemade wine, juice and a Balkan specialty from peppers called ajvar are just some of the wonderful things to be eaten here. While in Italy, I joking asked a man working in a wine shop if it was true if most of the Italian wine was produced from Macedonian grapes (something that people from Macedonia have told me). Expecting the man to reject the assertion, I was surprised when the man nodded his head and answered in the affirmative.

The balance between progress and preserving the way of life in the rural communities is the problem of the present and future. Resolution of the ongoing name dispute with Greece and institutional and governmental reforms are challenges for Macedonia's entry into the EU and NATO. Lack of access to foreign markets, along with European pricing for high cost items such as cars, computers, housing materials, etc., means that many people in the region struggle to keep their families together when better work and higher wages can be found working outside of Macedonia.

In an attempt to address these ongoing problems, the Municipality of Zrnovci has spent the last two years working towards the creation and promotion of rural tourism. Working with the development organization Epicentar, the community now has trained tour guides, bed and breakfasts, and catering services to attract tourists and others to visit the community and its local natural and historical attractions (including the archeological ruins of two 5th and 13th century churches in Morovis). In November, 2008, the local cooperative "Zrnovci Tourism" held its opening day and invited the media, tourism agencies, and others to come hear a presentation about the touristic services being offered in the community that included performances by two traditional music groups from the region. In addition, the participants were given a guided tour of the region and then were served a traditional lunch by the members of the cooperative.

In the future, the cooperative would like to build cabins and a dining facility to enhance local touristic offerings and build further capacity. Macedonia has much to offer to both the short-term tourist and those who have the ability to stay for longer stretches of time. For those who ima vreme and are looking for an adventure outside of the traditional European travel destinations, Macedonia is a treasure trove of history and culture.

Rachel Smith is an American Peace Corps Volunteer originally from Lanark currently living in Macedonia.

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